Improving Hair Porosity.

The best way to explain high porosity in natural hair is imagine that your hair is a sponge.  A sponge absorbs water very quickly and become soft and flexible.  But just as fast as it absorbs the water, it loses it at the same rate. High porosity in hair is the same way.   This translates into dry hair that has a difficult time retaining moisture. Hair is also hard and lacks flexibility or elasticity.  This makes it more susceptible to breakage and damage from both internal and external factors.  Usually raised and damaged hair cuticles are the blame.

Here are some treatments or products that help to decrease your hair’s porosity by closing or repairing damaged hair cuticles.  By closing and repairing the hair cuticle you are helping to moisturize and strengthening the overall health of your hair.

Deep Conditioning

Deep conditioners are hair products that fortify the hair with moisture or protein ingredients.  There are many on the market but can be distinguished between functionality.  Deep conditioners will either intensely moisturize your hair or strengthen and repair by infusing proteins.

Coconut Oil

Coconut Oil is the holy grail of natural oils. Not only is it one of the few natural oil with a composition small enough to penetrate the hair shaft. It has been proven to prevent damage and protein loss when applied before each shampoo.  That’s right, if you pre-poo with coconut oil you can prevent hair damage.

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)

As a pH balancer Apple Cider Vinegar has acidity properties that return the hair to its original pH of about 4.0. Balancing the hair’s pH results in closed hair cuticles.  The hair’s cuticles are raised by water and hair products during your shampoo sessions.  A weekly ACV rinse can close hair cuticles leaving the hair more moisturized and smoother in appearance. It ultimately decreases your hair porosity.

The LOC Method [Liquid.Oil.Cream]

The LOC (Liquid Oil Cream) Method moisturizes natural hair in 3 simple step. Its scientifically one of the best ways to moisturize natural hair when done with the right products and in the right order. Let’s explore 3 Reasons the LOC method works to moisturize hair and how it works.

Three Reasons the LOC method Works to Moisturize Hair

1. Water = Moisture

When it comes to moisturizing, water is moisture. Its a no brainer that adding water as the liquid to your hair is going to moisturize and hydrate. The issue is retaining that moisture from water. And that’s where the other 2 components of the L.O.C. method comes into play.

2. Oil Helps the Hair Hold on to Water Molecules

This is where the method loses some people. And for good reason. It’s true that oil and water don’t mix.  And if you are not using oils that penetrate the hair its best to use your cream before your oil or LCO Method. But certain natural oils have the ability to penetrate the hair shaft and bind with the hair internal structure or protein. These oils are coconut, olive, and avocado oil. They increase the hair’s ability  to hold on to water molecules.

3. Cream Locks In Moisture

But let’s not get caught up on the word cream. Because the best creams when it comes to this method may or may not be creams at all. The purpose of the cream component is to seal or lock in moisture introduced from L & O. Natural products that seal and coat the hair are ideal. They are more likely to retain moisture but still allow the hair to take in additional moisture in the case of rehydration between shampoos or co-washs. The best coating oils are Castor, Grapeseed, and Jojoba. They act as sealants. They can also act as emollients that lubricate and fill in gaps along the hair cuticle to prevent moisture loss.

BEGINNING A HEALTHY HAIR JOURNEY- WHAT TO BUY FIRST!

Beginning the journey to healthier natural hair can be an overwhelming process. Choosing the right products can be costly, time extensive and frustrating with so many options available.

Contrary to what many companies would like for us to think, most natural hair products contain the same ingredients and don't vary much from product to product. When you learn what ingredients your hair likes and dislikes, it will become more easier to pick hair care products. You will know that if a product contains a certain ingredient high in the ingredient list, it may or not work well for your hair.

Here is a list of some  ingredients, all very cheap and each and can be mixed and matched to suit your hair type. These ingredients are found in almost every type of natural hair care product from leave-ins to shampoos!

1. Aloe Vera Juice
Aloe vera juice is a great pH balancer (pH of 4), and can soothe itchy off balance scalps, add much needed moisture to thirsty hair, and smooth the cuticle. Aloe vera juice is great as a spritz (has a light hold) or as a rinse after using a shampoo with a high pH. It can also be beneficial during the detangling process. You can order aloe vera juice online or get it from your local health food store.

2. Vegetable Glycerin
Vegetable glycerin often gets a bad rap because it is a humectant, and in certain environments can make hair hard, crunchy, or greasy. When used in certain formulations, however, vegetable glycerin can be your hair's best friend, attracting and helping to retain moisture. 

3. Tea Tree Essential Oil
If you have scalp problems, let this essential oil become your best friend. One thing that many women complain about is an itchy, dandruff laden scalp. Tea tree oil is a great addition to your routine... add it to shampoos, conditioners, and even alongside carrier oils for a nice scalp massage.

4. Butters
Whether, you opt for shea butter (my love), mango butter or avocado butter, get you a butter and make a mix for your hair. You can use butters as moisturizers (mixed with other ingredients), sealants, etc. The world of butters is endless. You can use them in multiple ways from nourishing, to smoothing, to styling! Buy them in bulk and you can get enough to last at least a year!

5. Olive Oil
Olive oil is one of the best oils hands down. You can use this oil in many ways- - oil rinsing, scalp massages, moisturizing, sealing, and as a styling aide.

6. Coconut Oil
Just like Olive Oil, this oil can become your best friend. It's great for deep conditioning and as a leave in, and can be used to seal in the moisture from your conditioning treatments.This is just a basic list, but once you find out how your hair reacts to these few ingredients, you will be able to quickly decide which hair products are worth your money and which ones aren't. You may not like an ingredient as a leave-in, but find that you love it mixed with your shampoo or rinse-out conditioner. Experiment and remember that using natural hair products doesn't have to be pricey or overwhelming! Keep it simple!

HOMEMADE TREATMENTS FOR HEALTHY HAIR.

 When it comes to hair, sometimes the best treatments are actually quite simple and quite yummy! these foods are amazing for keeping hair moisturized and conditioned.

Coconut Milk Treatment
Coconut milk is rich in protein and fatty acids, which makes it great for conditioning, strengthening and minimizing hair breakage. It also protects you hair from the UV damage of constant sun exposure, it has been great for restoring shine and softness to hair.

You’ll need:
 1 cup coconut milk,
 1 peeled and mashed avocado,
 1 tbsp of honey (Be sure to apply to freshly shampooed hair).

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl. You can apply cool mixture directly to hair, or preheat mixture in microwave for 30-45 seconds. When applying, massage mixture into hair and scalp. Wrap hair in a hot towel or cover with shower cap for 15 min-60 min. Rinse out with shampoo/conditioner and style as usual.

Avocado Treatment
Avocado is great for quick softening, moisturising and deep conditioning. They are rich in fatty acids which are very nourishing for dry, brittle hair. Avocados are also rich in vitamins, protein and amino acids to promote healthy and stronger hair.

You’ll need:
 1 avocado (peeled), 
1 egg yolk,
 1 tablespoon jojoba oil (Be sure to apply to freshly shampooed hair)

Combine all ingredients together in a bowl until smooth. Massage mixture into scalp and hair. Leave in for 20 minutes. Rinse out with conditioner and style as usual.

Banana Treatment
Bananas are rich in natural oils and vitamins that help to restore hair’s natural elasticity- which will prevent breakage and split ends. Bananas, when used as a deep conditioning treatment, will also soften, restore shine and control dandruff.

You’ll need:
 1 banana (peeled), 
1 egg,
5 tablespoons milk, 
5 tablespoons olive oil (Be sure to apply to freshly shampooed hair).

Mix all the ingredients in a blender. Apply the mixture to your hair- from root to end. Let soak into your hair for about 15- 30 minutes. Rinse out with conditioner and style as usual.

Honey Treatment
Honey is a natural humectant, which means that it holds on to water molecules. This makes it a great moisturizer. Honey hair treatments are great for conditioning hair and adding sheen. Honey is also super rich in sulfur, iron, zinc and vitamins B1, B2, B3- all nutrients that aid in hair growth.

You’ll need:
 ½ cup honey,
 2 tablespoon olive oil (Be sure to apply to freshly shampooed hair)

Mix honey with olive oil. Heat mixture in microwave for 30 seconds. Apply to hair, then cover head with shower cap for 15-30 minutes. Rinse out with conditioner and style as usual.

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT TEA RINSES

What is a tea rinse? 
  A tea rinse is done by pouring a cup of tea, commonly green or black, over the hair to reduce shedding or stimulate hair growth. 

 How is it supposed to work? 
  The caffeine in the tea penetrates the hair follicles. 

 Is there any proof that tea rinses make hair grow faster or reduce shedding? One scientific study shows that caffeine can stimulate hair growth when used in tiny amounts (0.001% caffeine in water). The same study also found that applying too much caffeine to the hair follicles can actually stunt growth. A different study found that caffeine in shampoo can penetrate the hair follicles when left on for 2 minutes. Both studies were done on the hair follicles of men with androgenetic alopecia. So, no scientific studies have been done to test the effects of caffeine on a woman’s scalp who doesn’t have a hair loss disorder. Generally, the current evidence says that caffeine definitely penetrates hair follicles and may stimulate hair growth, but no one knows for sure. It’s impossible to say how much additional growth you might see, if any. Don’t expect more than an inch or two per year. There are no published scientific studies on caffeine and shedding.

 How do I do a tea rinse?

 1. Before you prepare for your shower, brew a weak cup of green or white tea. Black tea has higher caffeine content, so it’s not a good choice. You don’t want to make the tea too strong or you could do more harm than good. Try brewing 1 tea bag for only 1 or 2 minutes. 

 2. Cool the tea down to lukewarm. 

 3. Use a color applicator bottle or spray bottle to apply the tea to your scalp. 

 4. Leave it on for at least 5 minutes and up to 30 minutes. There’s no way to tell how long would be best.

 5. Shampoo and condition as usual. 

 6. Repeat the tea rinse 2 or 3 times a week. If you don’t see any results after 1-2 months it’s best to spend your efforts somewhere else. 

 7. You can also experiment with using tea to stimulate eyebrow growth. Follow the same steps as above and watch to see if the hair grows thicker or more quickly.

DETANGLING YOUR NATURAL HAIR

Detangling is a crucial part of all hair care. Detangling is simply using a hair-care tool to comb or brush through your hair. This helps to remove tangles and shed hairs that can cause matting, knots, and ultimately, breakage.

Many naturals have hair growth goals, but are struggling with retaining length. Learning to properly detangle natural hair will ensure that you are not just breaking it off. It will also help with overall healthy hair care, as improper detangling can result in split ends and damaged cuticles. Here are some tips on detangling your hair without ripping it out.

Wet and Condition Your Hair
Try wetting your hair thoroughly, then applying a generous amount of a slippery conditioner to your hair. When the hair is wet and lots of conditioner is applied, it is in a very ideal state for detangling. The water and conditioner provide lubrication and slip to the hair, which will make it super easy to detangle. your hair needs lubrication in order for your comb or brush to glide through. The more slippery your hair is, the more easily your comb or brush will go through it. Wet hair is also more elastic than dry hair, and will stretch under the tension of a comb or brush. Dry hair can easily break when combed because it has less elasticity and won’t stretch much before breaking. Wet hair with lots of slippery conditioner in it can make for easy, breezy detangling.

Detangle in sections
After  hair is nice and lubricated,  separate it into about 6-8 sections. Detangling your hair in sections can make life so much easier. Focusing on one section at a time is much less stressful than trying to detangle your whole head at once, and it ensures that you’re getting all of the parts of your hair. Detangling in sections also enables you to separate the hair you’ve already detangled from the hair that still needs to be detangled. You can use plastic hair clamps or duck bill clips to secure your sections, and make even smaller sections if needed. It is always a good idea to twist or braid the section after you are finished detangling it, to prevent it from tangling up again!

Use a Proper Comb or Brush
Combs and brushes are great for detangling, but some combs and brushes are better than others. I recommend using a wide-tooth comb or a brush with hard, wide bristles and a rubber base. Combs with tiny teeth are not as easy to detangle with as wide-tooth combs, and can cause more breakage than necessary. Invest in combs with teeth ½ an inch apart or wider.

Start From The Ends and Work Your Way Up
Don’t begin detangling from the middle or the root of your hair! You can’t detangle downward from the middle if the ends below it are tangled. Instead, begin detangling from the ends of the hair. Hold the ends of your hair with one hand and detangle with the other hand. Once the very end is detangled, begin detangling an inch above that. Continue detangling from a point higher than the one before until the section is completely detangled.

Try Finger Detangling Before Using a Brush or a Comb
Finger detangling is using your fingers like a comb, and separating strands of hair. Detangling with your fingers before using a brush or a comb can be great because you can feel major knots and tangles with your fingers and pull them apart gently. Take the section of hair and first pull the hairs apart gently with your fingers, separating any tangles. Then, comb your hair with your fingers! Finger detangling makes using the comb or brush much easier afterwards.

Detangle Before and After Shampooing
Shampoo tends to make the hairs stick together, so you should be sure that the hair is as separated as possible and has the least amount of shed hairs as possible before shampooing. You don’t want to have tangles in the hair and then add even more tangles by shampooing! You also want to re-separate the hair after shampooing. After rinsing out the shampoo, add conditioner to your hair and detangle!

Be Gentle
Always be gentle when detangling your hair. Rough detangling will cause nothing but pain, breakage, and damage. Detangle slowly and carefully, especially at the ends of your hair where it is the oldest and weakest. Your hair is awesome! Treat it like it is!

TRANSITIONING TO NATURAL HAIR: IGNORING THE URGE TO RETURN TO THE LYE

I sometimes find myself during this transitioning period  appearing to be at my wits end and it looks like i have reach that point in my transition, where i want to reach for the box of relaxer, because my new growth is beginning to get serious.

I want to give a few tips to those who have reached this point in their transition and may just need some encouragement to keep moving forward with their journey:

#1 Don't spend HOURS looking at photos where you were relaxed
There have been moments where I catch myself looking at old photos and I have to remind myself to keep it moving. If you are experiencing a weak moment, don't torture yourself further by bringing out those old photo's where you were still relaxing. This could stir up emotions you felt at the time of the picture where you may appear happier, and because your hair happens to be relaxed in the picture, you may wrongly connect the two an make an irrational decision. Instead, start collecting new photo's of your transitioning hair (especially when you have successfully pulled of a new style from that YouTube tutorial!) so that you can look to those for encouragement to keep going!

#2 Try an alternative
Instead of making such a drastic change as returning to the use of chemicals, why not try something less permanent such as flat ironing occasionally or roller sets? This may help you to overcome this part of your transition without having to give into that urge!

#3 Reward Yourself!
Transitioning can be a roller coaster of a journey and requires more patience than some of us even knew we were capable of having! So instead of focusing on the negatives, try celebrating the positives by rewarding your accomplishments so far. Acknowledge the efforts you have put in already, and allow yourself that new lipstick you have had your eyes on!

#4 That 'Good Hair' documentary
As cheesy as it sounds, watching this documentary was the kick up the backside I needed to finally start my transition, and I know I'm not alone in that! When you are at a low point, watch the documentary and hopefully it will stir up those emotions that made you want to kick the relaxers out of your life.

#5 Spend time looking at naturals and fellow transitioners
Happiness can be infectious! If you spend some time surfing the web reading the testimonials of those who have been in your shoes and are now completely natural, seeing how happy they are with their decision will no doubt rub off on you and remind you that this thing is not impossible. Collect some pictures of smiling naturals whenever you feel that relaxer urge coming on!

#6 Write a list of all the reasons why you decided to transition
As you get further into your journey, the reasons why you started it in the first place may become blurred along the way. This can make you question whether continuing to go any further with your transition is really necessary. For those times where you feel you may be reaching for that box of chemicals, make a list of all of those reasons that you decided to start transitioning. This will keep your goals fresh in your mind and motivate you in achieving them.

…………..

Feeling like you are ready to go back to relaxing does not make you a terrible transitioner! We all have our weak moments and sometimes just need some encouragement to keep the wheel spinning. At the end of the day, you have to remember that doing what is best for you is what is most important!

Happy Transitioning =)

How do you stay motivated during your transition?